When I first booked this trip, I was assured that this would be a pleasurable biking experience allowing plenty of time for pictures and views. How wrong they were ... in fact I'd classify it more akin to an 'iron man triathlon boot camp'.

Granted, the views were spectacular and we had perfect weather, but this was offset by the saddle gulch pain as we notched up 60km each day over some of the roughest cobblestone roads known to man! Poor Gill had bruising on the underside of her arms from the incessant handlebar jarring and ended up releasing a barrage of abuse at me for booking such a ridiculous trip.

Our accommodation was dubious until we complained. Our first night was spent in a freezing outhouse in the middle of nowhere, the second in a crappy hotel in Latacunga with two single beds (on our honeymoon??). We threatened to call the whole trip off, after which conditions improved with the third night spent in the legendary 'Black Sheep Inn' on Thanksgiving Day which was a great experience.

Our final day was spent in a place called Mindo which is well known for its cloud forest, hummingbirds and butterflies. Weighing up our options for the final day, we told the guide to screw the planned uphill bike ride over cobblestones and opted to take it easy and go and see the butterflies.